Esteban Cortazar – FW17

by Abdon FLORES

“It was probably due to his Latin-American roots”, one could speculate concerning the eclectic collection Esteban Cortazar showed in Paris a few days ago. Mr. Cortazar focused his clothes on many axes. There was a first section where tartan appeared to set the pattern of the show; but then it just disappeared and layered, preppy, multicolored looks invaded the runaway in the Henry IV lyceum, just to be replaced by somber, glamourous night dresses where tartan was back. This mutability also happened in the fabrics and prints where a wide panoply of materials and motifs were at stake. Many ideas, for sure, in a 28 pieces collection that had in this variability a lingering virtue.




The Colombian designer is well known for his tendency to revisit from zero fundamental pieces in fashion. A great essayist, his creations have a certain déjà vu allure even if they are perfect pieces with a master-crafted design. But definitely tartan and dark blue satin were a couple of guides to define the woman he had in mind for next Fall and Winter. Putting aside the excesses, it was in his simplest looks where his talent could be more appreciated. Like the white cocktail dress model Jacquelyn Jablonski wore or the red leather pants with a semi-transparent blouse Zoe Manakh walked in. The casualness and suitability of these outfits made them look not only comfortable but desirable, a plus in any collection.



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